Cabin Air Filter Replacement 2006 Toyota Avalon

Most late model Toyota automobiles are now equipped with cabin air filters. Many people neglect these filters, as they are easily forgotten. Regular replacement of cabin air filters can help prevent annoying odors from developing in your car, as well as keep the air that you are breathing inside your car clean. Most dealerships recommend cabin air filter replacement every 30,000 miles, or more often if you are operating your car in a very dusty environment.

This post is an example of cabin air filter replacement on a 2006 Toyota Avalon. The procedure for cabin air filter replacement is similar on the entire Toyota lineup. All you must do to gain access to the cabin air filter is to remove the glovebox. Once you remove the glovebox, you'll something that looks like this below. (minus the yellow arrows)

You'll need to press the cabin air filter cover retainer tabs inward towards each other. (Where the yellow arrows are pointing.) This will release the cover from the cabin filter housing, and you'll be able to pull it straight out. Once the cabin filter is covered, go ahead and pull the cabin air filter out too. Here's what you'll be looking at once the cabin air filter is removed.

As you can see below, the air filter in this car was quite dirty. (The replacement filter is on the right.) It is not uncommon to see filters even more dirty than this. Once the cabin air filter was replaced in the car, the interior air quality of recirculated air improved significantly.

2007 Toyota Avalon P0500

Had a 2007 Toyota Avalon brought into the shop displaying an ABS light. After performing a road test, I noticed that the speedometer was mostly inoperative. It would bounce up and down erratically, but then later the speedometer would do nothing at all. I scanned for diagnostic trouble codes, and a P0500 (vehicle speed sensor) was registered in the powertrain control ECU. Here's a pic of the warning light on the instrument cluster:

The ABS ECU would not respond whatsoever to an attempted trouble code scan. This was the first indication that the ABS ECU was bad. After disconnecting the ABS ECU harness connector, the speedometer stopped its erratic operation. This was a second indication that the ABS ECU was defective. After confirming that the ABS ECU was receiving battery voltage at the harness connector, and a good ground, the ABS ECU was condemned. Here's a pic of the ABS ECU with the harness connector removed:

The hydraulic ABS actuators and the ABS computer are all built into one integral unit. To remove the ABS ECU (electronic control unit), the brake lines had to be removed from the ABS ECU. Once the brake lines were removed, brake fluid leaked everywhere, so if you are tackling this same job, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a catch pan under the car before removing the ABS ECU. Also, the use of a line wrench instead of an open end wrench will assist with easily removing the brake lines from the ABS ECU.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the ABS ECU to the body of the car, and the ABS ECU can be wiggled past all of the brake lines.

Once the new ABS ECU is installed into the vehicle, you will need an assistant to help pump the brakes to bleed all of the air out of the brake system. On this vehicle, I initially snugged all of the brake lines into the ABS ECU, and then cracked them open to bleed the air out one by one, as an assistant pumped the brakes for me. Luckily for me, the air bled out quickly. (For the replacement of some ABS modules, the air can be really tricky to get out of the system.)

Upon intial startup of the vehicle after the ABS ECU replacement, the ABS light immediately cleared. I didn't even have to clear it with a scan tool. A post repair road test revealed that the ABS was functioning normally after ABS ECU replacement. Case closed on this Avalon.

P043E, P043F, P0441, P0455, P2401, P2402, P2419 DTC's on 2011 Toyota Tundra

Today, a brand new Tundra with 711 miles showed up at the shop with a multitude of evaporative emissions diagnostic trouble codes. These trouble codes all relate to malfunctions in the evaporative control system, the emmissions control system that traps gasoline vapors and prevents them from being vented into the atmosphere. Here is a screenshot of the trouble codes:

While it is unusual for a new Toyota to have any such problems, they do occur from time to time. The source of the problem was quickly traced to the charcoal canister (which has the leak detection pump and various other electronics built into it). 99% of the time, on just about any late model Toyota, if there are P2402 and a P2419 DTC's set at the same time, the vehicle is going to need a charcoal canister. Replacing the canister is a simple process. The canister is located behind the gas tank, towards the rear of the truck. Here's what it looks like prior to removal:

Next, you will need to disconnect any of the three emissions hoses connected to the charcoal canister, and then you will need to disconnect one electrical connector. After all the hoses and electrical connector have been disconnected, remove the 4 bolts holding the canister to the crossmember. The canister will then be ready for removal.

Installing a new canister is easy and straightforward, the procedure is exactly the reverse of removal. This repair would have been quite expensive if the truck was not under warranty (a little over $900 for the part alone). Here's a picture of the failed evaporative emission system charcoal canister.

Headlights on All The Time On 2006 Corolla

I've had several Corolloas come in lately all with the same problem. The headlights will not turn off, which causes the battery to go discharge while the car is parked. Fortunately, the fix is simple most of the time. The most common cause for headlights staying on all the time is a faulty headlight switch. Here's the repair procedure on a 2006 Corolla.

The first thing I did was to disconnect the battery and hook up a battery charger to the battery because it was completely dead.

The second step to replacing the headlamp switch is to remove the airbag assembly. Do not try to remove the air bag assembly prior to disconnecting the battery. Remove the two bolts holding the airbag into the steering wheel. Once the bolts are removed, you will be able to pull the airbag straight out. Be careful, because the airbag harness will still need to be unplugged from the airbag.

Use a small pick or pocket screwdriver to disengage the wire harness clips from the airbag assembly, and remove the airbag from the steering wheel. Next, remove the nut holding the steering wheel to the steering column. Once the nut is removed, use white-out or a marker to mark the position of the steering wheel prior to removal.

Next disconnect the wire harness connectors connected to the steering wheel. Use a steering wheel puller to pull off the steering wheel off the steering column. Below is what you'll be looking at once the steering wheel is removed.

Next remove the three phillips scews which hold the plastic steering column shroud in place. It's a two piece cover, and it snaps apart and snaps back together, so you might have to pull a little on it. Here's what you'll be looking once you've got the column cover off.

Next, you will need to remove the clockspring. This is a simple procedure. Just disconnect the two electrical connectors going to it, and disengage the plastic clips that hold the clockspring to the steering column. Make sure not to allow the clockspring to rotate after you've removed it, and also make sure to reinstall it back into the same position once you are reassembling the vehicle.

The final step to getting the old headlight switch out is to disconnect the the wire harness connector to the headlight switch and disengage the plastic clips that hold the switch to the steering column. Once the clips are disengaged, the headlight switch will pull right out.

Installation of the new headlight switch is reverse of disassembly. Just make sure to double check that you don't leave any wire harness connectors unplugged, and make sure to reinstall the steering wheel back into the same position it was before the wheel was removed.

The culprit: faulty headlight switch for 2006 Toyota Corolla

Got The P0171 Blues in your Toyota Corolla?

Do you drive a Toyota Corolla, and currently have a check engine light? You've had the car scanned for trouble codes (DTC's), and you pull up a P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) . What does this mean? What to do?

"Too lean" means that the engine is not receiving enough fuel for the amount of air coming into the engine. In other words, the engine is receiving more than 14 parts of air for 1 part of fuel. (Internal combustion engines run best at this air/fuel ratio.) While there can be numerous causes for this code to be set, on 2005 - 2008 Toyota Corollas, the repair is usually quite simple. 99% of the time, I have found the cause of a P0171 for 2005-2008 Toyota Corollas with 1ZZ-FE engines to be the intake gaskets. The problem is so common, Toyota even put out a technical service bulletin for it. For a mechanically inclined person, doing this repair can save a couple hundred dollars because the cost of the part to fix this issue is usually not more than $10.

The problem with the Corollas is that the old intake gaskets on the Corollas with the 1ZZ-FE engines is that over time, they harden and lose their elasticity. This allows unmetered air to sneak past the gasket and into the intake manifold, thereby causing a lean condition. Here's how to fix the problem.

First let's take a look at what you seen when you first open the hood.

Remove the plastic engine cover, and remove the intake tube from the air cleaner housing to the throttle body, and you've got this:

Next, remove the two 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts holding the throttle body onto the intake manifold. Seperate the throttle body from the intake manifold, but you do not need to take the throttle body completely off the car. Just set it to the side with the coolant hoses still attached to it.

Now remove all the bolts holding the manifold to the engine cylinder head. Once you have all the bolts removed, you shouldn't have to fight it out, the manifold should easily pull right out. If it doesn't pull up off the engine easily, you probably haven't removed all the bolts. Here's how the engine bay looks with the manifold removed.

The intake manifold gasket is a one piece rubber gasket. If it is still a factory installed gasket, the gasket will be black. Go ahead and pull the old gasket off.

The new & improved intake manifold replacement gasket is orange. Install it onto the intake.

Once you have installed the new intake manifold gasket, you are ready to install the intake back onto the car. Once you have installed the intake back onto the car, start the engine and spray some carbueretor cleaner around where the intake manifold is. If there is still a vacuum leak present, the engine will idle down. If there is no vacuum leak, the engine rpm will not change as you spray carb cleaner around the intake. Of all the Corollas I have put intake gaskets on, only one required further attention after replacing the gasket. Oh, and don't forget to clear the DTC with your scan tool so the check engine light will turn off.

Most customers at our shop pay $170 - $200 (primarily for diagnosis and labor) for this easy repair on Corollas. If you're mechanically inclined, try to replace the intake gasket yourself, and you just may save a couple hundred Dollars.

How to Change Transmission Fluid in 2005+ Toyota Trucks and SUV's With World Standard ATF

For quite some time, I never knew how to service an automatic transmission for newer model Toyotas.  This was because I could never find a transmission fill tube or dipstick.  It turns out that I was not crazy or blind, there is actually NO dipstick or fill tube on 2005+ Toyota pickups and SUV's using World Standard ATF.  Here's how to change the World Standard ATF if you wish to perform the procedure yourself. 

First, you will need to make sure you've got the right tools.  Tools needed:

1. Scan tool to monitor transmission fluid temperature
2. 15/16" wrench to remove and install transmission fill plug
3. 5mm Allen socket to remove overflow plug.
4. 14 mm socket to remove transmission fluid drain plug
5. 3/8" ratchet

Once you've got all the tools together, you'll need to hook up your scan tool and verify that the ATF fluid temperature is below 115 degrees Fahrenheit.  If the fluid temperature is too high, you will need to let the truck sit for a while till the fluid temperature cools down.  This is very important.  If the fluid temperature is not correct, you may end up with an incorrect fluid level after performing a fluid drain and refill. 

Here's a screenshot from the scan tool indicating ATF fluid temperature. 

This transmission has two different temperature readings, and both indicate that the temperature is well below the 115 degree threshold, so it is safe to proceed. The next step is to either hoist the vehicle into the air, using either a lift or onto jackstands. Once the vehicle is in the air, you will be able to access the transmission fill plug. The fill plug is located on the transmission extension housing. Remove the plug with a 15/16" wrench.

Next, you will need to drain the transmission fluid. Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the ATF drain plug. Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain into a container. Go ahead and also remove the transmission overflow plug using a 5mm allen socket and 3/8" ratchet. The fill plug and the overflow plug are labeled in the below picture. In case you forget, the 14mm plug is the drain plug, and the allen plug is for the overflow tube.

Once the fluid has been drained out, you're going to need a pump to put some new World Standard ATF into your transmission. I use a pump that looks like this one below:

Replace the washer on the drain plug and reinstall the drain plug back into the transmission. Make sure that you don't over tighten the drain plug, as it will easily strip the threads in the transmission pan. Once you have the drain plug in place, use your pump to pump fluid into the transmission. You will be pumping transmission fluid where the fill plug was. I usually set the pump on a roll-around cart so I can comfortably pump the fluid until fluid begins to flow out of the overflow tube. Once you see fluid coming out of the overflow tube, temporarily install the overflow plug.

Next, start the engine and allow the transmission fluid to warm up. If it's a cold day outside, this might take a few minutes. The repair manual says you can check fluid level between 97 degrees and 115 degrees Fahrenheit. I like to check the fluid level near the upper end of this range, as this is what I have had the best luck with. I will monitor the fluid temperature with the scan tool till it reaches between 105 and 115 degrees.

Now, comes the most crucial step in the entire process. Once the transmission is at operating temperature, will the engine still running, remove the overflow plug, and either one of two things will happen. Either, transmission fluid will flow out of the overflow tube, or nothing at all will come out. If no fluid comes out of the overflow tube, the fluid level in the transmission is low, and you will need to add more fluid. Add fluid until you see fluid begin to trickle, not pour out of the overflow tube. If the fluid is gushing out of the overflow tube, the transmission is overfilled. Below is a picture of what the fluid should look like when trickling out of the transmission.

Once you're sure that the fluid level is correct, install and tighten the overflow tube plug. Lower the vehicle from the hoist or jackstands. Now, test drive the vehicle and check to make sure that the transmission shifts correctly.